| Plastic model airplane building is a
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| | strokes, or repaint an area that is still
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| hobby that appeals to a wide variety of
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| | wet. Wait until the paint is dry then
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| people and age groups. From the
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| | apply another coat if necessary. After
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| youngster building his or her holiday
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| | painting, clean your brushes thoroughly
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| gift to the veteran re-creating a piece
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| | with the recommended thinner, and store
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| of history. Following the basic
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| | them upright in an old cup.
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| instructions is generally a good place to
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| start, but there is a whole world of
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| knowledge beyond the instructions. Here
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| | Spray Cans. Paint delivered by spray
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| are some tips for creating a
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| | can will give a smoother finish than the
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| better-looking model:
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| | brush. Cans cool down as they are used
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| | which causes the paint flow to slow down.
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| | Place the can in warm (not hot) water
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| Wash the parts first. The parts are
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| | for ten (10) minutes or so to fix this.
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| made by injection molding, and are
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| covered with a release agent to help
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| un-stick them from the mold. This agent
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| | Airbrush. The airbrush is the ultimate
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| will prevent paint from sticking well to
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| | tool for painting model airplanes. It is
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| your model. Wash the parts in soap and
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| | like a spray can with much more control.
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| water, then air dry. You can use a hair
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| | The air pressure and paint volume can be
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| dryer to help.
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| | controlled (in some types,
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| | simultaneously) allowing the user to
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| | paint fine lines at will. If you plan to
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| Cockpit. Assemble and paint the cockpit
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| | keep building models, it is a worthwhile
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| next. The cockpit will be permanently
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| | investment.
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| enclosed within the fuselage halves, and
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| will be nearly impossible to paint later.
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| | Canopy. The clear plastic canopy has
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| | frames that need to be painted. This can
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| | be done with a fine point brush and a
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| Minimize glue. Use only a thin line of
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| | steady hand. A better option is to use
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| glue on each side of the fuselage, or
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| | masking tape to cover the canopy, then
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| each side of the wing. Use only a dab to
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| | use a sharp hobby knife blade to cut and
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| attach small parts. You can apply the
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| | remove tape from the frame portions.
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| glue with a pin to have better control
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| | Then paint, and after drying remove the
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| over the amount of glue. Excess glue
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| | remaining tape.
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| gets onto the surface of the model and
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| creates lumps which must be cleaned up
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| with sandpaper.
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| | Gloss Coat for Decals. The water-slide
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| | decals (markings) that come with the kit
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| | will look much better if applied onto a
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| Alignment. Take care to line up the
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| | gloss surface. A clear gloss overcoat
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| wings and tail relative to the fuselage.
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| | should be applied, then after drying
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| A crooked airplane is easy to spot. Use
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| | apply decals.
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| tape to hold the larger pieces together
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| to check the alignment, before you apply
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| glue.
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| | Flat Coat. If the airplane has a
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| | naturally flat (matt, non-glossy)
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| | surface, then after applying decals,
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| Gap Filling. Sometimes after gluing
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| | paint with a flat clear coat.
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| there will be gaps between pieces. A gap
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| between the fuselage halves, or where the
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| wing joins the fuselage, is common and
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| | Visit our website for detailed
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| easy to spot. Fill these gaps with
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| | illustrated tips and
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| putty, or with cyanoacrylate glue (super
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| | tutorials on creating a museum-worthy
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| glue). When the filler is dry, smooth
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| | World War 2 Airplane Model.
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| with sandpaper.
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| | This article may be reprinted if proper
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| Paint with Brush. If painting by brush,
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| | credit is given and all links left
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| get at least 3 sizes (wide, medium and
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| | intact.
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| fine). Try not to overlap your brush
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